Climbing in the Fanns

DAY

PROGRAM

0

Departure from home to Tashkent

1

Tashkent arrival (according to international flights schedule).

Meeting with local guide and transfer to Samarkand at night appr 5 hours. Not hot, nice rest (short tea break in the national tea house - "choikhona" during travel),

accommodation in Samarkand in the B&B, DBL, BB.

Time for independent exploration of this nice fairy-tales city.

Optional excursions round city Samarkand.

2

After early breakfast start to drive from Samarkand to the mountain International Mountaineer Tourist Center “Vertical-Alaudin” (210 km, 8-12 hs). Do not forget to take bottles with water, as the road and weather are very hot during summer time.

Crossing the border Uzbek-Tajik, border formalities, changing the transport on Tajik side.

Optional excursions in ancient capital of Sogdiana state Pendjikent (excavations of ancient town 1500 years old, local museum with local guide), optional visit local East bazaar.

Optional lunch and rest in local administrative center in the mountains town Aini.

Last 30 km is the real mountain road, going along the river Pasrud and narrow canyons and green basins.

Arrival in IMTC "Vertical-Alaudin", meeting and greeting and welcome dinner at the Center in our mountain restaurant.

Accommodation is in the cottages (2-4 persons room).

FB in our mountain restaurant,

Free day with walking around the Alaudinsky lakes.

Preparation for the acclimatization trek to Koolikalon Lakes

Overnight is in the cottages.

After breakfast at the Center start (appr at 08.00) trek to the Koolikalon lakes via Laudan pass (3600 m) (4-5 hs, 10 km by path, by which the ancient local population was connected with outer world)

A magnificent view of the 1,5 kilometer Koolikalon wall is opened from the pass.

Light lunch during trek.

Fixing the camp on the bank of one of the lakes.

A stroll around the Koolikalon lakes. Those who wish can go by the low Zierat pass (3320 meters) to the lakes Zierat and Chukurak, or ascent of the Fluorite pass (2900 m); a visit to the mine in which fluorite was extracted, climbing Mt. Fluorite (3200m) from which a fine view of the entire Koolikalon wall and the Koolikalon basin opens up, and visiting the lakes Dushakha in the upper part of the Koolikalon basin under the Koolikalon wall.

Dinner at the camp

Overnight is in the tents at the bank of one of the lakes.

After breakfast at the camp continue the walks and rest at the Kulicalon lakes.

Light lunch at the camp.

At appr 13.00-14.00 return to the IMTC "Vertical-Alaudin"  via the Alaudin pass (3830 m) (5-6 hs, 10 km).

Dinner at the Center.

Overnight is in the cottages.

Preparation to the climbing part.

After breakfast at the IMTC and packing the equipment start (appr at 12.00-13.00) simple trek to the Mutny lakes (3500m) along the Chapdara river valley (10 km, 3,5-4 hs).

Light lunch during trek.

Fixing the camp, walking around,

Dinner at the camp.

Overnight is in the tents.

After very early breakfast at the camp start (appr at 06.00) climbing the peak Zamok ("Castle", 5070m) by classical route, appr 10 hours.

Simple climbing (25-30 degree max, 650m) by conglomerate slope, simple glacier with crampons and ropes (max 30 degree, one-two fixed ropes, 500m), flat "football field" to the top. The same route for descent. 

Light lunch during climbing.

Return to the camp at appr 17-19.00

Dinner in the camp.

Overnight is in the tents.

Day of the rest at the camp at Mutny lakes

FB at the camp

(Optional - return to ITMC "Vertical-Aladuin" and rest in the cottages with FB)

Two options for some next days - Option "Energy" and Option "Chimtarga"

9

Option "Energy"

After very early breakfast at the camp on Mutny Lakes, appr at 05.00 start climbing the peak Energia (5300m) by classical route.

Simple but long trekking to the pass Chimtarga (4600m) by glacier (10-15 degree, without crampons) and by small broken stones by path to the pass. Appr 3-3,5 hour. Climb Energia by ridge – 25-30 degree by broken stones+rocks, then 300-350m by ice (not more than 30 degree, but hard ice, 5-6- fixed ropes), rocky slope to the top.

Light lunch-box during climbing

The same route for descent. And rest at the camp on Mutny lakes.

Dinner at the camp

Overnight in the tents.

Option "Chimtarga"

After very early breakfast at the camp on Mutny Lakes, appt at 05.00 start climbing the highest peak of the region beautiful Chimtarga (5484m) by classical route.

Steep slope along the glacier with middle broken stones (appr 25-30 degree, 600m), flat glacier to the pass Avlodon (4600m), short steep slope on the pass by small broken stones and then along the narrow ridge to the peak Miraly (5050m). This ridge is the edge of Big Koolikalon Wall (appr 5000m). Under right foot – 1,5 km of the wall over beautiful basin of Koolikalon lakes. Overnight on the pass Mirali (5000m, big flat place for 5-6 tents).

Light lunch-boxes during climbing

Fixing the tents on the pass Mirali

Dinner in the camp

Overnight in the tents

10

Option "Energy"

After not early breakfast at the camp, descent to IMTC "Vertical-Alaudin", accommodation in the cottages and rest with walks

Lunch and dinner in IMTC

This day can be as reserve day for the weather for the option "Energia"

Option "Chimtarga

After early breakfast at the camp, at appr 05.00-06.00 start climbing the top of the Chimtarga peak 5487m.

Depending on snow-ice conditions it can take 6-7-8 hours from the pass Mirali and back.

Snow slope, 20-25 degree.

Light lunch box during climbing

Return to the camp at on the pass Mirali

Dinner at the camp

Overnight in the tents.

11

Option "Energy"

After breakfast in IMTC walk via pass Talbas to the valley of the river Bodhona.

Great view of the North walls of Bodkhona and Chapdara mounts.

As another option  - walk to the glacier Bodkhona, between South wall of Bodkhona and North wall of Zamok.

Or other options of walk for exploration of this nice mountain region.

Light lunch boxes during trek

Dinner in IMTC- Celebration of successful ascents

Overnight in the cottages

Option "Chimtarga"

After not so early breakfast at the camp on Mirali pass, descent to Mutny lakes and then to IMTC "Vertical-Alaudin"

Light lunch boxes during descending

Dinner in IMTC - Celebration of successful ascents

Overnight in the cottages

12

For Both options - reserve day for bad weather.

FB.

Farewell dinner at IMTC "Vertical-Alaudin"

Overnight in the cottages

13

After breakfast, say "Good bye" our IMTC "Vertical-Alaudin" and drive to the famous high mountain lake Iskanderkool (named after Alexander the Great). Lunch on the bank of the lake. Visit nice waterfall.

Then say "Good bye" to the Fann mountains and drive to the mountain village Urmitan, the capital of a former feudal domain Falgar, on the bank of Zeravshan river, visiting the local houses, blacksmith, potter, ancient mosque (XI cent.).

Dinner in the native house in national tradition on the floor.

Accommodation is in native house on the floor or in the garden on the ground

14

After breakfast drive to Samarkand. Crossing the border, border-customs formalities, Changing the transport. Arrival in Samarkand.  Accommodation in the B&B, DBL, BB. Rest and walks.

15

After breakfast in the hotel or B&B the excursion about Samarkand with transport and local guide. Visit famous and majestic places of this fairy-tales city – Registan Square with three madrassahs, Mausoleum of Tamerlan Gur-Emir, Complex Shah-i-Zindah, Mosque Bibi-Hanum, sand town Afrosiab. Optional folklore concert in the evening. Rest, farewell dinner with new friends. Evening/night transfer for Tashkent airport

16

Tashkent departure according to international flights schedule